Table Saw from a Circular Saw Redone

http://www.instructables.com/id/My-Table-Saw-from-a-Circular-Saw-Redone/
I bought a good circular saw and hung it below a piece of 3/4 inch plywood. I added a couple of my own innovations, and it could do very precise work. I could also remove the circular saw to rip a panel too large for my table saw, and put it back into my table saw without the need to align it again. I no longer have that circular saw or the table I made. See how I made that table saw here.
But, I wanted to have a table saw again and wanted to utilize my Porter-Cable circular saw (Model # PC15TCSMK). This saw has a rigid base that does not flex easily, a 13 amp motor, and almost no run out to change the line of cut when the motor starts.
What I do not have is a lot of space to store a table saw, so I wanted a saw that almost stores flat. See the second photo. When I want to use the saw, I back my car out of our garage and set up my saw near the open door on folding sawhorses.
Materials

• 3/4 inch plywood 29 x 48 inches for the saw table
• 3/4 inch plywood for the fence and the face of the miter gauge
• Steel bar 1/4 x 2 inches and 1/4 x 3/4 x 24
• 1/4 inch and 5/16 inch threaded rod
• 8-32 machine screws about 1 1/2 inches in length
• Various nuts and washers
• 3/4 inch water pipe
• Angle iron from an old bed frame
• Steel fence post
• Steel electrical boxes and covers for a switch and an outlet
• Three 3/8 inch romex connectors
• 15 amp duplex outlet and 15 amp toggle switch
• Twist on wire nut
• Three prong male plug
• 16-3 rubber covered wire
• Round steel bar to make the collar in step 2
• Concrete reinforcement bar for the carrying handle
• 1/4 inch plywood

Tools

• Circular saw
• Radial arm saw
• Dado blade (adjustable)
• Framing square
• Folding rule
• Router
• Handheld Drill
• Drill press
• Welder
• Angle head grinder with a cutting wheel and a grinding wheel
• 3 pound hammer
• "C" clamps
• Plywood straightedge guides
• Pliers
• Screwdrivers
• Files

Step 1: First step: cut the miter gauge slots

The miter gauge slots need to fit the miter gauge's steel bar precisely. I used an adjustable dado blade with carbide tips to dial in the exact width of the 1/4 x 3/4 inch steel bar I planned to use for the miter gauge. I made test cuts in some scrap lumber. In the process I learned two bars may be classed as 1/4 x 3/4 inch, but one is a bit narrower than the other. I cut my slots to fit the piece of steel I would use.
I also have a radial arm saw now. One capability of a radial arm saw is using the edge of the table nearest the operator as a cutting guide together with a straightedge clamped to the bottom of the work piece. I described that process in this Instructable. I have a piece of 3/4 inch chipboard about 4 inches wide and 36 inches long. It has very straight parallel edges on both sides. I clamped it under the piece of plywood you see in the photo. It was positioned midway between the two slots in the table and was parallel to them. All I had to do was set the depth of the dadoes and hold the plywood firmly on the table while cutting one slot and then turning the plywood end for end to cut the second slot. The process is almost failure proof and the finished product is very accurate.

Contractor table saw mods

http://youtu.be/bP-Ab0xc4iw

BORK vs. guard splitter

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/1485
The Bolt On Ripping Knife (BORK) from Bob Ross of Walnutacre Woodworking is a retrofit riving knife that fits several traditional saws that were not originally designed for a riving knife. The BORK attaches to the arbor swing arm, and rises, lowers, and tilts in unison with the blade much like a true stock riving knife does. I’ve had a BORK on my Shop Fox W1677 since August of 2008, and have been very happy with it. It’s available in full kerf or thin kerf thicknesses, and will currently fit Grizzly, Shop Fox, Delta Unisaws, and Jet JTAS cabinet saws, as well as Craftsman, Steel City and some Jet Hybrid saws.
Because the BORK is made to adapt to existing saws, there are challenges that Mr. Ross needed to address. As such, it’s not necessarily as elegant of a design as true riving knives that are fitted to saws that were designed from the ground up to accommodate the riving knife, but it’s a clever and effective design that offers the benefit of a riving knife to several older style saws.
Installation is moderately easy, and once adjusted properly, the BORK works quite well, basically mimicking the movement of the blade up, down, and when tilted. Note that because the BORK is attached to the end of a swing arm that extends beyond the arbor shaft, the BORK doesn’t necessarily rise and fall in direct proportion to the movement of the blade, though it’s close. As the blade is raised, the BORK travels a slightly greater distance up, and likewise when the blade is lowered, so the height of the BORK will not always be at the exact same height relative to the blade, though it can be depending on where you manually set the blade height initially. This is rarely a problem, and is most easily resolved by setting the BORK height the same as the blade height for common wood thicknesses, which puts the BORK at an ideal location for most boards. It can be easily manually adjusted up or down relative to the blade height to accommodate lower or higher blades heights as needed for exceptions. Also note that proper adjustment requires the use of a custom zero clearance insert to offer lateral support.
Bob Ross is an avid woodworker, very much like many of us, who evolved this device because it was said that it couldn’t be done. He’s also a super guy to deal with, and is honest and open about his invention. He offers discounts to forum members who will write a review of the BORK, and backs his invention with a 100% money back guarantee. It’s available for ~ $125 shipped at theBORKSTORE.com. The BORK is a unique device unlike any other I’m aware of. It works well and I still get a kick out of watching the BORK rise through the throat insert on my saw.


Aftermarket riving knife (BORK) vs. fixed shark guard splitter?
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?11288-My-B-O-R-K/page2
http://youtu.be/Q8hNK2tQtmE
http://youtu.be/LY26zjLFb9w
http://youtu.be/bP-Ab0xc4iw

Kreg Pocket Hole Jig Review

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/kreg.htm
I saw it demonstrated at the various trade and woodworking shows, but quite frankly was not impressed, primarily because of the visible pocket hole. A cabinetmaker friend however purchased one and said that it and the pocket hole techniques expounded by Marc Sommerfeld revolutionized how he made cabinets. A year later, I purchased the Kreg master kit (Wood Werks Wauconda IL.) and the Sommerfeld basic video. After watching the video (to learn the Sommerfeld pocket hole technique) I was hooked. Many, many cabinets later I still have not found a more efficient "system" for putting together face-frame cabinets.
I must underscore the use of the word "system"! I have bought into the "system", lock, stock, and barrel which I believe is essential to make the best use of the tool. And right or wrong, the system works! I challenge anyone to come up with a more efficient system that produces a sturdy, great looking face-frame cabinet. The reason I say right or wrong is that there are many ways to construct a face-frame cabinet. In the past I joined face-frames using mortise and tenons or dowels and attached them to the cabinet sides using biscuits. I attached stretchers and the like also using biscuits. Assembling large cabinets was always difficult when working alone. As we all know, glue works as a great lubricant until it sets. Once the clamps are applied, the workpieces slip and slide half way to .......
The Sommerfeld system pretty much does away with the need to clamp the cabinet parts together during assembly and greatly speeds up the assembly alignment process. As long as you cut everything square, and cut the sides, face frame members, and stretchers to equal length, the cabinet squares up almost automatically when you attach the stretchers and face frames. I typically use one clamp: A 36" one-handed vise-grip quick clamp. Occasionally, I add two Bessy K model clamps if for some reason the cabinet didn't square up right. (Bessy clamps are unique in that they tend to square up whatever they're clamping.)
Because of posts on the various woodworking bulletin boards I must add....The Kreg pocket hole system is designed to hold two GLUED pieces of wood together while the glue sets. I doubt seriously that it is Kreg's intention that one simply uses screws to secure a joint. Several detractors have noted that the angle and depth of the pocket hole created by the Kreg Jig is inferior to other pocket hole tools. If indeed it is inferior, it is only inferior if you are not planning to use glue for the primary bond. The purpose of the Kreg pocket hole and screw is to provide an efficient and convenient means to "clamp" two pieces of wood together. Once the glue cures, the screws are just added reinforcement.

Rolling pin sander

• 1:09 Rolling Pin Side Sander Short Clip

http://youtu.be/dFLSlefVyyg

Best designed hand plane

http://youtu.be/RWW3VJzZPjM?t=4m39s

DL Barret & Sons tools

http://www.dlbarrettandsons.com/Planes.html
http://www.dlbarrettandsons.com/currentworks.html

Veritas Tools

leevalley.com/en/wood/
Veritas Spokeshaves

These spokeshaves are beauties, and they will quickly become favorites as they are so easy to use. All three have been designed for smooth, effective, chatterfree shaping of chair spindles, panel edges, paddles and tool handles, or other shaping. The 1/8" thick blade, machined lever cap, and blade bed achieve chatterfree cutting in virtually all conditions. The ductile cast iron body is fitted with bubinga handles, shaped for comfort and control. The toe serves as a thumb rest, allowing the user to choke up on the body to attain exceptional control for fine work. Twin adjustment wheels quickly and accurately control cut depth and skew, and shims let you adjust the mouth opening as needed. Our flat and round spokeshaves have a 2-1/8" wide blade and are suited to most kinds of woodworking. The round shave has a 1-3/4" radius. The concave spokeshave, with a 45° bed angle, a sole radius of 15/16", and a 1-1/2" wide blade, is popular with chair and paddle makers; it is the first choice for a wide range of jobs from small spindles to large oars. Each spokeshave weighs about 12 oz. 10-1/2" long overall. Blades come in A2 or O1 tool steel. Patented. Made in Canada. For those who cannot resist the temptation to customize their tools, we offer a kit that allows you to make custom handles for any of the three Veritas spokeshaves. The kit includes brass washers, hanger bolts, a mandrel for lathe mounting and assembly (although handles can also be carved or shaped with other freehand techniques), and detailed instructions.

• Making a small spokeshave.wmv

  Lee Valley's Veritas Bevel Up Smoothing Plane

Veritas® Bevel-Up Planes A.  Veritas® Small BU Smooth Plane B.  Veritas® BU Smoother Plane C.  Veritas® Low-Angle Smooth Plane D.  Veritas® BU Jointer Plane E.  Veritas® Low-Angle Jack Plane .  Veritas® BU Jack Rabbet Plane (not shown)

http://youtu.be/P84PCIJ7QeE
The low angle and up facing bevel keep the angle of attack quite low for very fine results.
http://www.consultingwoodworker.com

The Blum Tool Co

The Blum Bench Plane

http://youtu.be/6BTw8GCpOQY

Blum Tool Co manufactures a growing range of high quality, handmade woodworking tools. All are produced in our shop in Walnut, Iowa. Quality and innovation are the driving forces behind every tool we design and build. Our tools reflect the great traditions of the past, but incorporate many unique ideas for increased performance, ease of use, and ease of sharpening.
Our Sharpening Box™ and Bench Horse™ are both now patented. The bench planes remain 'patent pending'. 

We have many other new products and improvements, such as the new brass knobs and medallions on the planes, the redesigned frog to eliminate any backlash, our new holdfasts which are hand forged, and a beautiful new mallet. 

Blum planes are a radical departure from standard wood and metal planes. They combine the ease of adjustment of metal planes with the lightweight and tactile feel of wooden planes. And they solve the problem that both wood and metal planes share--the need to grind an oftentimes thick iron and while doing so grind it straight (or slightly cambered ), square, at the proper angle and all the while making sure not to burn the iron. The following is a list of the Advantages and Novel Features : • Each plane comes with its' own sharpening jig. • The thin blades never need grinding. • Plane is fully adjustable- no tools required • No separate chipbreaker. The chipbreaker is integrated on the frog. • No separate lateral adjuster required. • No widening of the mouth as the sole is worn down from truing. • Full handgrip without interference on the smooth planes. • A scraper frog is available. • Can be ordered with a cambered frog installed in the plane.

Each plane now comes with its' own easy to use sharpening jig. The blade is held in the slot by two rare earth magnets and blade projection is controlled by two jacking screws. The rear adjustable shoe is marked with 1° lines, so moving it down to do a secondary or microbevel is easy and fast. When the jig is parallel to the stone, as shown in the picture, that is your 30° setting. All the plane blades come with a 30° primary bevel and 32° secondary bevel.

How does it work?

At first glance, you may wonder, where is the blade? That is a legitimate question, because it is not constructed like any prior plane. Look at the pictures below to see the construction details and the frog.


The thin blade is sandwiched between a massive frog which is 3/4" thick at the bottom and a back-up iron which is 5/32" thick. The leading edge of the frog thus becomes the chipbreaker and guides the shavings up and into the throat. The reverse angle of the frog matches the angle at the front of the throat, so the old problem of the throat widening as the sole is worn down from truing is no longer an issue. In fact, you can take 3/8" off the sole and the opening will still be the same! The frog is adjusted for blade depth and lateral projection with the two adjusting nuts at the top of the plane. By being situated at the outer sides of the frog, adjusting depth also controls lateral adjustment so no separate lateral adjuster is required. There is no backlash in these adjusting screws whatsoever, so this is a very fast and precise process.

The large brass knob tightens the frog lock bolt which is captured in a T-slot in the back of the frog. This knob should be loosened slightly before adjustments are made and then re-tightened afterwards.

The mouth opening is adjustable without tools by turning the two knurled thumbscrews which bare against the back of the frog. This is done in concert with loosening and retightening the large brass lock knob. The blade is removed for sharpening by lowering the blade slightly below the sole and loosening the 3 screws in the back-up iron. The blade is then able to be slid out because it is slotted for the screws.

Krenov style plane -garlopa Krenov

villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/2008/08/krenov-style-planes.html
tomsworkbench.com/2009/11/02/stuff-ive-built-my-krenov-style-plane/

This project started with a meeting with Ron Hock.

http://www.hocktools.com/FAQ.htm
http://www.hocktools.com/A2.htm
These blades were developed in collaboration with the faculty  and staff at James Krenov's Fine-Woodworking studio here in Fort Bragg. 3/16" thick, they won't deflect or chatter under the toughest use. Designed specifically for the finely-tuned handmade wooden plane, these irons are un-beatable. Bevel is 30°. They come complete with chip-breaker and assembly screw. High carbon steel.
 At the 2009 Woodworking in America conference, Ron was there as a featured vendor. At his table was a choice selection of his plane irons. I told Ron I was considering purchasing a smoothing plane with a little more oomph than my Stanley No. 4. Ron was quick to recommend that perhaps the best solution might be to build my own.
That’s when I laid out the money for a 2″ Hock iron and stared looking into plans for building a Krenov-inspired model.  With the plans from Popular Mechanics and some help from Bell Forest Products, I soon had a block of bubinga and instructions to work from.

Intro Tools and Materials

Step 1: Preparing the Stock

Step 2: Preparing the Stock

Step 3: Internal Shaping

Step 4: Internal Shaping

Step 5: Internal Shaping

Step 6: Internal Shaping

Step 7: Internal Shaping

Step 8: Internal Shaping

Step 9: Crosspin Work

Step 10: Crosspin Work

Step 11: Crosspin Work

Step 12: Crosspin Work

Step 13: Plane Assembly

Step 14: Plane Assembly

Step 15: Plane Assembly

Step 16: Wedge and Cutting Iron

Step 17: Wedge and Cutting Iron

Step 18: Finishing and Adjusting

Step 19: Finishing and Adjusting

Read more: How To Build 3 Basic Hand Planes - Popular Mechanics
Our interpretations are easily built, and the basic design is well-suited to modification so you can make planes that match your needs. We offer three sizes: a block plane, smooth plane and jointer plane, all based on the same shape but each with a different-size cutter iron. We used irons specifically designed for wooden planes, available from Hock Tools, 16650 Mitchell Creek Dr., Fort Bragg, CA 95437; www.hocktools.com. The three sizes are: 1-1/4 in. (No. PI125), 1-1/2 in. (No. PI150) and 1-3/4 in. (No. PI175). Each iron comes with a cap iron and assembly screw.
While many woods are suitable, we chose cherry for the bodies and wenge for the soles of our planes. 
Wenge (pronounced WEN-gay) is a dense African hardwood that's available from www.amwoodinc.com. 
A sole isn't absolutely necessary, but a hard, dense wood resists wear on the bottom surface. Try to select stock that allows you to orient the grain vertically in both the plane body and sole to provide better dimensional stability.
Click on link for high-resolution version of the plans. (Illustration by Eugene Thompson)

 

Now, I’ll tell you I was terrified to start.  I mean, what if I had just wasted all that money on the iron and the wood? A few e-mails back to Ron brought more encouragement.  “Tom, look at it this way,” Ron wrote, “If you mess up badly, you are only out about a board foot or two of wood.  You can start over and do it again.”
The first part was easy… I had to edge and face joint the board to make everything nice and smooth.  Soon, the rough surface gave way to the lovely shade I had come to expect from bubinga.  Dead flat and four square.

The next step was easy as well…. Rip one cheek at one half inch, then the plane body at 2 1/16″ to accommodate the iron, then the other cheek.  I used a cabinetmaker’s triangle to ensure everything would stay oriented.
The directions then called for me to cut the plane body block at 45 degrees. At the table saw, this took only seconds, and the results were stunning.  Dead flat on the face and a true 90 degrees to the edge.

I put a 3/4″ router bit in my table mounted router in order to make a relief groove to accept the screw that holds the iron and the chipbreaker together.  Ron’s irons have a pretty beefy screw, but it was easy to center the bit on the block and make the cut.
By simply flipping the other body blank upside down, I formed the gullet of the plane.  The instructions said to file a flat spot at the miter point of the block that holds the iron, then space the two pieces 3/8″ apart to allow clearance for the iron.  I clamped both blocks to the cheeks and carefully marked where they had to be when I glued the plane together.
I took both cheeks and stacked them together, then drilled a 1/2″ hole through the cheeks at a mark in the gullet to receive the cross pin.  The plans called for me to create a complicated tennoned rotating pin to hold the wedge in place, but Ron advised me to just go with a fixed pin – it would save time and work just as well.  I took a length of 1/2″ oak dowel I had the shop and cut it a little longer than the plan called for so I would have excess I could trim.

Then came the glue up.  I lay one cheek flat on my bench and put glue on it – staying clear of the gullet area – then put the two body pieces in the places I had marked earlier.  Then, I put glue on the tops of the body halves and one end of the oak pin.  I slipped the oak pin into one of the cheeks and then put the other cheek on the top side of the assembly.
The next step I found to be critical.  Not only did I clamp the assembly together across the width, I also clamped it down to the bench to ensure things would line up.  Once I was satisfied, I went on to build the wedge.
After cutting an appropriate piece from the remaining bubinga, I put it into the vise and started to shape it with hand tools. I didn’t want to overshoot my thickness, so I worked carefully with a few rasps and a block plane to bring things down gradually.  Before long, I had the wedge to the right thickness and I was ready to work.

I took the plane out of the clamps, and started to shape it.  I cut the plane to length and then worked on rounding over the front and back edges.  I used the band saw, rasps and a belt sander – bubinga is tough stuff. Once I was happy, I flipped the plane over and ran the sander over the sole.  I wanted it dead flat, so I kept checking with a straight edge.  Once I had it nice and flat, I finished it off with a scraper to get the surface nice and smooth.

The came the moment of truth.  Would it even cut?  I put the iron in and tapped the wedge into place.  It took some fussing at first, but once I got the iron where I wanted it, it cut beautifully!  I do need to get my hands on a plane hammer – my carpenter’s mallet isn’t going to cut it adjusting the iron.  But, other than that, the plane works great.
The time invested was so small… one Sunday afternoon.  If I hadn’t stopped to watch football and tend to the laundry, it might have taken me about two hours. The results, however, were pretty spectacular.
Not a bad way to spend a weekend in the shop!
=================================

• How to make a Krenov style plane pt. 1/2

• How to make a Krenov style plane pt. 2/2

Wooden planes -Cepillos

http://www.phillyplanes.co.uk
http://youtu.be/RWW3VJzZPjM
http://www.thewoodhaven.co.uk An interview with Phil Edwards, the only hand made wooden woodworking hand plane maker in the UK. Phil discusses how he started making planes and what he loves about planed made from wood.
http://youtu.be/mb7OUESlVT4 

HOCK Plane Kit 
 http://youtu.be/ZWYUsLtUg_I

HOCK TOOLS' Wooden Plane Kit (#KF150) has been redesigned to do away with the separate sole plate. The entire plane is now made from jarrah to make assembly very fast and easy.

Building a traditional style wooden plane 
(Try it harder.. but you must/can hear him circa 1 hour)
Building a traditional style wooden plane Building a traditional style wooden plane Part 2
 look only bis 5:20... (zen-budhismus cutting)
avoid the third part... (more zen-budhismus feeling and planning)
Building a traditional style wooden plane pt.4
Building a traditional style wooden plane pt.5
Building a traditional style wooden plane pt.6
Building a traditional style wooden plane pt.7 
Building a traditional style wooden plane pt.8
Building a traditional style wooden plane pt.9 













How to make a traditional style jointer plane (by a japanese woodworker)

• 14:07 How to make a traditional style jointer plane part 1

• 7:58 How to make a traditional style jointer plane part 6