Kingwood -Palisandro

Kingwood (Dalbergia cearensis)

Common Name(s): Kingwood Scientific Name: Dalbergia cearensis Distribution: Brazil (and occasionally from Mexico) Tree Size: 30-60 ft (10-20 m) tall, less than 2 ft (.6 m) trunk diameter Average Dried Weight: 74 lbs/ft3 (1,195 kg/m3) Specific Gravity (Basic, 12% MC): .98, 1.19 Janka Hardness: 3,880 lbf (17,240 N)* *Estimated hardness based on specific gravity Rupture Strength: No data available Elastic Strength: No data available Crushing Strength: – lbf/in2 (- MPa) Shrinkage: No data available

Color/Appearance: Heartwood is a dark purplish or reddish brown with darker black streaks. Sapwood is a pale yellow.

Grain/Texture: Pores are medium to small. Grain is usually straight, with a fine texture. Can occasionally have interlocking grain.

Endgrain: Diffuse-porous; small pores in no specific arrangement; solitary and radial multiples of 2-3; heartwood deposits occasionally present; growth rings distinct due to seemingly marginal parenchyma bands; rays not visible without lens; parenchyma banded, apotracheal parenchyma diffuse-in-aggregates, paratracheal parenchyma vasicentric, and aliform.

Rot Resistance: Reported as being very durable in decay resistance, and is also resistance to termites.

Workability: Tends to be difficult to work due to its high density. Kingwood has a moderate blunting effect on cutters, and tearout can occur during planing if interlocked grain is present. Can be difficult to glue do to an abundance of natural oils and high density. Turns very well and takes a high polish.

Odor: Has a mild odor similar to Cocobolo when being worked.

Allergies/Toxicity: Although severe reactions are quite uncommon, Kingwood has been reported as a sensitizer. Usually most common reactions simply include eye and skin irritation. See the articles Wood Allergies and Toxicity and Wood Dust Safety for more information.

Pricing/Availability: Likely to be very expensive, and seldom available as lumber; Kingwood is most often seen as smaller turning stock, with its cost being on par with other scarce exotics in the Dalbergia genus such as Tulipwood or African Blackwood. Kingwood is seldom available in large pieces due to the small size of the tree itself, and is instead used as accent pieces.

Common Uses: Inlays, veneers, tool handles, and other small turned and/or specialty items.

Comments: Considered a true rosewood in the Dalbergia genus, Kingwood is among the densest (and probably strongest) of all the rosewoods. There is very little mechanical data available on Kingwood, though given its weight, and its relation to other rosewoods, it’s likely to be extremely stiff, strong, and stable.

In terms of its history, Kingwood supposedly got its name from several French kings (Louis XIV and Louis XV) that preferred the wood in the use of fine furniture.

Related Species:

• African Blackwood (Dalbergia melanoxylon)
• Amazon Rosewood (Dalbergia spruceana)
• Bois de Rose (Dalbergia maritima)
• Brazilian Rosewood (Dalbergia nigra)
• Burmese Rosewood (Dalbergia oliveri)
• Cocobolo (Dalbergia retusa)
• East Indian Rosewood (Dalbergia latifolia)
• Honduran Rosewood (Dalbergia stevensonii)
• Madagascar Rosewood (Dalbergia baronii)
• Sissoo (Dalbergia sissoo)
• Tulipwood (Dalbergia decipularis)
• Yucatan Rosewood (Dalbergia yucatensis)

Related Articles:

• Top Ten Heaviest Woods

Scans/Pictures: A special thanks to Steve Earis for providing the wood sample of this wood species.

Kingwood (sanded)	Kingwood (sealed)
Kingwood (endgrain)	Kingwood (endgrain 10x)
Kingwood (turned)

Wooden Bowl -Cuenco

http://youtu.be/qBTqkVdE7Jk
One of the highlights of American craft tradition is the wooden bowl. Highly sought after craftsman would turn bowls that were prized by families and passed from generation to generation. Camden Rose creates these bowls from a single piece of premium hardwood. Our bowls range from 6" -- 17" in diameter and are sealed with Three BEEautiful Bees polish
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 http://www.turningblanks.net/servlet/StoreFront
http://www.seventhdevilbowls.co.uk/beforeandafter.php

Floor masterpieces

0:28 Mark glues a floor piece 
Bill Duke pouring brown epoxy

http://youtu.be/oExzIWWDvaU

Home built pipe lathe

http://youtu.be/L4QH6Nvm2ng

Pen Turning Tips and Techniques

5:00 (Pen Turning Tips and Techniques)
 Start with sand paper. If it's stabilized burl you can use micro mesh, otherwise just sand to 600 grit. You can use a CA Pen finish if you're wanting an ultra glossy look.
1h:32m:07 04-14-11 Lazerlinez Pen Kit
Cyanacrylat finish
http://youtu.be/Y8wdHFrVadY
http://www.timberbits.com/ This is how I apply my 20 thin coats of CA. It is a very quick method of applying a high gloss finish to the pen blanks. I use a paper towel to apply the finish. I have doe it so many times that I don't even use rubber gloves any more. The finish is hard and durable. The accelerator I am using is Mitre Fix. It is an aerosol accelerator that produces a fine mist as opposed to a pump action one which produces big water droplets. The purpose of the accelerator is to quickly set the CA. You don't have to use the accelerator but that will mean you will need to wait 30 - 60 seconds between coats
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I have to admit I was a bit leery of doing the wet sanding at high RPM, but I opened it up (3800 RPM) and kept lots of water on the micromesh and a light touch. Polish out with Mothers Mag Polish and Maguires Plastic Polish. FANTASTIC. Like a sheet of glass.  
http://youtu.be/Scw4jsTGX9Iusing a blank made from cherry pits embedded in a red color resin. At late 3500 rpm and 1000 rpm for the finish
Pen Turning, Making a Wall Street II

• 2:02 The $160,000 Fountain Pen

• 11:27 Cocobolo Pen
• 8:39 Pen turning-acrylic-pheasant feathers-gouge, scraper, skew
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• 10 vídeos Pen turning
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• 15:00 # 78 Working with Corian

• 18:42 Creating Custom Acrylic Pens
• 7:33 CA Glue as Pen Finish
• 5:14 The Making Of A European Syle Pen
• 7 vídeos Guide to Turning Acrylic Pens

Cocobolo

http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/cocobolo
Common Name(s): Cocobolo, Cocobola
Scientific Name: Dalbergia retusa
Distribution: Central America
Tree Size: 45-60 ft (14-18 m) tall, 1.5-2 ft (50-60 cm) trunk diameter
Average Dried Weight: 67 lbs/ft³ (1,070 kg/m³)
Specific Gravity (Basic, 12% MC): .89, 1.07
Janka Hardness: 3,180 lb_f (14,140 N)*

*Estimated hardness based on specific gravity

Rupture Strength: No data available: most likely in excess of 18,970 lb_f/in² (130,830 kPa), the values for Brazilian Rosewood (Dalbergia nigra)
Elastic Strength: No data available: most likely in excess of 1,880,000 lb_f/in² (12,970 MPa), the values for Brazilian Rosewood (Dalbergia nigra)
Crushing Strength: No data available: most likely in excess of 9,600 lb_f/in² (66.2 MPa), the values for Brazilian Rosewood (Dalbergia nigra)

Shrinkage: Radial: 2.7%, Tangential: 4.3%, Volumetric: 7.0%, T/R Ratio: 1.6

Color/Appearance: Cocobolo can be seen in a kaleidoscope of different colors, ranging from yellow, orange, red, and shades of brown with streaks of black or purple. Sapwood is typically a very pale yellow. Colors are lighter when freshly sanded/cut, and darken with age; for more information, see the article on preventing color changes in exotic woods.

Grain/Texture: Has small to medium sized pores and a fine texture. The grain can sometimes be interlocked.

Endgrain: Diffuse-porous; medium pores in no specific arrangement; solitary and radial multiples of 2-3; various mineral deposits occasionally present; growth rings distinct due to marginal parenchyma; rays not visible without lens; apotracheal parenchyma diffuse-in-aggregates, banded, paratracheal parenchyma scanty, and vasicentric.

Rot Resistance: Like most rosewoods, Cocobolo has natural oils that give it excellent resistance to decay.

Workability: Due to the high oil content found in this wood, it can occasionally cause problems with gluing. Also, the wood’s color can bleed into surrounding wood when applying a finish, so care must be taken on the initial seal coats not to smear the wood’s color/oils into surrounding areas. Tearout can occur during planing if interlocked grain is present; the wood also has a moderate blunting effect on cutting edges/tools due to its high density. Cocobolo has excellent turning properties.

Odor: Cocobolo has a distinct spice-like scent when being worked, which some find unpleasant: though it has been used in at least one women’s perfume.

Allergies/Toxicity: As with nearly all rosewoods in the Dalbergia genus, Cocobolo contains sensitizers which can irritate the skin, and cause allergic reactions in some people. See the articles Wood Allergies and Toxicity and Wood Dust Safety for more information.

Pricing/Availability: Cocobolo is in limited supply, (proposals have been made—as of yet unsuccessfully—to add Cocobolo as an endangered species in the CITES Appendix II), and is also in relatively high demand, (for ornamental purposes), and is likely to be quite expensive. Prices should compare similarly to other rosewoods in the Dalbergia genus.

Common Uses: Fine furniture, musical instruments, turnings, and other small specialty objects.

Comments: One of today’s most prized lumbers for its outstanding color and figure; yet also one of the most notorious for being difficult to glue, and it’s tendency to cause  allergic reactions in woodworkers.

Also, there are a few misleading reports of Cocobolo’s Janka hardness being only about 1,100 lb_f, and it’s modulus of elasticity at only about 1,100,000 lb_f/in²: which is almost certainly either a typo or a different wood than what is commonly called Cocobolo (Dalbergia retusa). Reports indicate that Cocobolo is stronger and denser than Brazilian Rosewood, and that is the basis for the strength values (bending strength and modulus of elasticity) that are quoted at the top of this page.

Specific gravity is used to predict the hardness of wood with a fair degree of accuracy, and given its incredibly high density, (it sinks in water: see video below), Cocobolo’s hardness (and other strength properties) is most likely several times higher than the 1,100 lb_f which is sometimes reported.

Related Species:

• African Blackwood (Dalbergia melanoxylon)
• Amazon Rosewood (Dalbergia spruceana)
• Bois de Rose (Dalbergia maritima)
• Brazilian Rosewood (Dalbergia nigra)
• Burmese Rosewood (Dalbergia oliveri)
• East Indian Rosewood (Dalbergia latifolia)
• Honduran Rosewood (Dalbergia stevensonii)
• Kingwood (Dalbergia cearensis)
• Madagascar Rosewood (Dalbergia baronii)
• Sissoo (Dalbergia sissoo)
• Tulipwood (Dalbergia decipularis)
• Yucatan Rosewood (Dalbergia yucatensis)

Related Articles:

• Restricted and Endangered Wood Species

Scans/Pictures: Below you can see a small representation of the wide array of colors that can be seen in Cocobolo. Also, due to it’s high density (over 1000 kg/m³) you can also view a video of Cocobolo showing how it sinks in water. A special thanks to Steve Earis for providing the turned photo of this wood species.

Cocobolo (sanded)	Cocobolo (sealed)
Cocobolo (endgrain)	Cocobolo (endgrain 10x)
Cocobolo (turned)	Cocobolo (kaleidoscopic colors)

http://www.elmundoforestal.com/elcorazon/cocobolo/cocobolo.html

Storing and Curing Wood -seasoning timber

http://youtu.be/irfBC2OlQPQ
http://woodlands.co.uk. How to season wood. Storing and curing wood - seasoning timber. Cabinet maker Jeff Segal shows how he'll store and cure the freshly milled plane tree, using bearers or stickers to separate the wood and allow the air to circulate.
wood: tree-timber-log-lumber-slabs

• 6:10 How to Buy Rough Lumber
• 3:39 Building a Solar Wood Dehydrator
• 5:44 Stacking and Drying Lumber
• 1:29 Australian Timber Naturally milling log into Timber Slabs
• 8:38 Cutting Lumber from Logs
• 3:35 Air Drying Fresh Cut Lumber

Rustic coffee tables

http://youtu.be/xrloek-X3Xg

• How to Build a Log Coffee Table P 2
• 1:30 How raw slabs turn into a beautiful table
• 8:00 95COFFEETABLES

• 0:44 Rustic Coffee Tables

Simple disk sander

http://youtu.be/8JmSN-xzlU8
It's powered by a 1.6 hp electric lawn mower motor.

Glue methods

http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue_methods
Thanks for it, Matthias!!
"Be careful you don't squeeze all the glue out of the joint" is something I have heard from time to time. I have always been sceptical as to whether that's even possible, so I figured the best way to debunk that would be to put it to the test.
And while I'm at it, I figured I'd explore some other aspects of gluing.
I used LePage carpenter's glue for all my tests (plain old yellow PVA glue), just because that's the glue I use the most. All my test joints were 4cm x 4 cm cross-grain hard maple on hard maple. I used hard maple because it's a very consistent closed grain domestic hardwood. It's hard and strong, so hopefully, I'd be testing the strength of the glue, not the wood.
At left, squeezing the living daylights out of a glue joint in an attempt to squeeze all the glue out of the joint.

As an opposite to the excessive clamping, I clamped most of the other joints using only a ten pound weight as a clamp.

Another property I was curious about was whether this glue was any good at gap filling. So I glued several joints with thin plastic spacers (0.012" or 0.3 mm) on the corners so that there was a thick layer of glue between the two pieces. I applied light clamping force with a weight, in this case, I'm using a really large bolt as the weight. I made three of these joints, two with smooth scraped surfaces, one with sanded surfaces.

I also heard people say that the glue would not stick very well to surfaces that are too smooth, so I prepared some of my surfaces by scraping them with a cabinet scraper. The joint surfaces in the remaining tests were sanded with 80 grit sandpaper.

Some furniture makers only put glue into the mortises, then slide a dry tenon into the mortises. That way, the glue only gets pushed into the mortise, with no glue getting scraped off the tenon and squeezing out. I was always wondering if that would form a good glue joint.
To simulate this method, I glued a few joints with glue only applied to the rail, then sliding the other piece onto it and clamping it. Think of the long rail with the glue on it being the side of the mortise, and sliding the dry piece onto it, pretending to be the tenon.

Overall, it took quite a bit of time to prepare the samples. With many cross pieces glued onto a rail, and most samples only clamped with a weight, I had to wait for the joints to dry before I could add more. I also wanted to make sure every joint had at least 48 hours to dry before I tested them. I made over 20 joints.

My testing apparatus is the same one I that I used for my earlier joint strength and glue strength tests. Basically, a very solid L-shaped frame, with a small bottle jack on a bathroom scale to apply a measured amount of force. The test piece is clamped to the post of my L.

A video camera records the scale (for review, in case I miss the maximum reading). The video camera is mounted on one of my wooden tripods. My wooden tripods were the only ones to give me the flexibility I needed. The camera has to be looking down backwards so that the scale is right-way-up, and, more importantly, so that the flip-out screen flips out towards me.

Results

Gluing method	Breaking forces	Average
Sanded, 10 lbs clamping	160,160,150,150,135	151
Scraped, 10 lbs clamping	145,150,190	162
Sanded, clamped hard	135,150	143
Scraped, clamped hard	110,130,100	113
Gapped joints	170,180,185	178
Dry tenon, sanded	35,40,70	48

Download the results in excel
I expected the "dry tenon" type joint to do worse than average, but I was surprised by how much worse it did. The dry tenons broke with an average force of 48 pounds, less than one third the force that most of the other joints broke at. I think it's safe to say that the "no squeezeout" trick of only putting glue in the mortise doesn't make for a strong joint.

Clamping the joint excessively hard in an attempt to squeeze all the glue out of it was also detrimental to joint strength, especially if the glue surfaces were very smooth wood. However, scraping, if anything, resulted in a stronger joint when only lightly clamped. Given sample variations and the small difference, I can't say with absolute certainty that scraping the wood made the joints stronger, but I think it's safe to say that it didn't weaken them significantly.
A big surprise was that the gapped joints (with the 0.3 mm layer of glue) were the strongest joints of all! I'm still puzzling over that one a bit. I "masked off" the very corners of the joint with my spacers, and that may have helped the joint. I'm assuming the crack that breaks the joint always starts in the corner (where shear stress is greatest), and to have those not part of the joint might have been helpful, similar to how a relief cut in a machining context can actually make the part stronger. Another possible explanation is that I used so much extra glue, that the squeezeout from gluing may have added some joint area. Or maybe all that extra moisture made for a slower drying joint, which might be better.
Regardless of what effects account for the difference, I think it's safe to say that a joint with a bit of a gap in it, filled with glue, can be just as strong, if not stronger than a tight joint. That said, the drying glue does shrink a little bit, and large amounts of glue take much longer to dry, so it's unadvisable to deliberately make joints with large gaps in them.

Scraped surfaces with 0.3 mm gap

Sanded surfaces, 10 pounds clamping

Scraped surfaces, clamped very hard

Summary:

• Only applying glue to the mortise of a mortise and tenon joint is a bad idea
• Excessive clamping force can weaken the joint strength by up to 20%
• A very smooth scraped surface is just as good, if not better than a sanded surface, as long as not clamped excessively hard
• Gaps in a joint, as long as they are filled with glue, do not aversely affect joint strength.